An Arizona-based food, beverage and travel writer since 2008, I launched this website in 2015 to document my culinary adventures, beverage escapades, gardening endeavors, and travel in the Phoenix area and beyond. Also find a comprehensive calendar of Phoenix-area food and drink-related events on my Events page.
I first experienced Chef Tony Andiario's wonderful pastas at Quiessence shortly after moving to Arizona from Boston. I still remember praising his braised oxtail pyramids with brown butter sauce in a 2008 article when I was the food writer for AZ Wine Lifestyle magazine. Now he's chef de cuisine at Chris Bianco's "American trattoria" Tratto and his handmade pastas are part of a fabulous menu that embodies the best of Italian cuisine - stellar ingredients, simple techniques, amazing flavor.
We were joined by our frequent dining companions, Bill and Lill of AZ Bitters Lab, and between the four of us we were able to try every dish on the 10-item menu that changes weekly. We nibbled on a complimentary plate of marinated tomatoes, olives, and cheese with a round of cocktails (a Negroni for me), before choosing our wines for the evening. We started with a bottle of Cesarini Sforza 'Tridentum' Rosé, and later a Sicilian red, Centonze Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
The menu is divided into Antipasti, Primi, Secondi and Contorni. We started with four antipasti, including Tratto's farinata, a thin Ligurian chickpea pancake studded with okra that was the perfect texture of light and crispy, creamy and savory.
My introduction to rich testa (head cheese) was at Mario Batali's Luppa in New York many years ago, but I don't remember it being this good. Here, coppa di testa was slathered on crunchy-chewy foccacia and accented with pickled wax peppers, red onion, and parsley.
Simple, yet addictive: Little gem lettuce with roasted shallot vinaigrette and shaved 4-year-old high mountain Parmigiano-Reggiano, and cucumber salad with celery root and parsley tossed in a creamy vinaigrette.
Our table was divided over which of these two fantastic pasta dishes were our favorites: Tortelli stuffed with Bellwether Farms ricotta in an impossibly silky and flavorful passata gialla yellow tomato sauce, or farro tagliatelle with seared chicken livers cooked in brandy. The chicken livers from Two Wash Ranch were so sweet and buttery, this dish made a convert out of a former liver-hater.
It's rare that I swoon over chicken, but this may be the best preparation I've ever had. Picollo chicken from Two Wash Ranch was gently infused with bay laurel and lemon and grilled until crispy with meat so tender it cut like butter.
The meat lovers were just as happy with the pork costolette, a pounded and breaded bone-in pork chop swathed in sage-scented brown butter.
Our duo of contorni were the perfect side dishes: Grilled zucchini with garlic, mint, and squash blossoms, and coal-roasted Ichiban eggplant on a pool of parmigiano fonduta and garnished with raisins, AZ-grown pistachios, and fresh basil.
Tratto is located in the Town and Country Shopping Center at 4743 N 20th St, Phoenix, AZ 85016. Phone: (602) 296-7761. It is open for dinner only and closed Sundays and Mondays.
Sometimes a longstanding Valley favorite can be lost in the buzz of the latest restaurant opening or celebrity chef, but Pane e Vino is a restaurant you don't want to overlook. Pane e Vino (Italian for "bread and wine") opened in 1997 and on Mother's Day 2017 will celebrate their 20th anniversary. Owners Gillian and Stuart Bailey bought the restaurant five years ago but are familiar with its popularity and loyal patrons - Gillian has been at Pane e Vino for 14 years and her husband has worked as general manager since it opened. Likewise, Chef Ramon has been a longtime member of the Pane e Vino family, as has Mark, our affable waiter on the night we dined. The Baileys are proud of their restaurant and team, and know the secret to continuing success. "Stuart and I are always on property and work really hard," Gillian tells me. Another important aspect to their work ethic is giving back to the community and you'll also find this industrious couple engaged in volunteer work throughout the Valley.
One of the first restaurants to open in its North Scottsdale neighborhood, Pane e Vino is tucked away in the La Mirada shopping center and worth seeking out. Stepping into this cozy, yet elegant, restaurant, you'll notice the inviting bar and lounge (home to a popular Happy Hour), a dining room with white tablecoths and luxurious cushioned booths, and walls puncutated with vibrant originals by artist Mark Brodie. There's also a pretty patio for al fresco dining. We settled in our plush corner booth, ordered pre-dinner cocktails (vodka martini for Ernesto, and a Negroni for me) and tried to decide what to order from the enticing menu.
The emphasis on quality ingredients shines in dishes such as the Carne, Formaggio & Olive Bordo. It's a prime example of a perfect composed plate of cured meats and cheeses, including Pecorino Romano, creamy gorgonzola, prosciutto di Parma, sopressata, salami piccante and, my favorite, finocchiona flavored with fennel.
I always love to see a wide range of seafood choices on an Italian menu and Pane e Vivo didn't disappoint. My husband opted for Lumache alla Bourguignonne - buttery, garlicky escargot - while I enjoyed my Oysters Casino with baked Blue Point oysters garnished with peppers and strips of smoky bacon.
My husband is a huge Spaghetti Carbonara fan, especially those that fall into the extra-creamy category, and this homey dish was another winner.
Pane e Vino's Cioppino is a crowd favorite and it's easy to see why.Regulars know that while this won't be printed on the menu, it's a nightly special of a bed of linguine piled high with perfectly-cooked shrimp, scallops, calamari, clams, mussels, and salmon in a flavorful, briny tomato sauce. It will be hard for me not to order this again when I return.
My husband was just as happy with his choice. Another spot-on recommendation from our waiter Mark, Costoletta di Vitello arrived as a juicy pan-roasted veal chop festooned with an addictive sweet-and-savory medley of dried apricots and oyster mushrooms.
While we were afraid we hadn't saved room for dessert, Mark convinced us that we couldn't leave without a slice of Pane e Vino's famous tiramisu. Note to self: Always listen to Mark.
Thank you to the Baileys for the invitation and an introduction to a restaurant I'm happy to have found. I loved everything about Pane e Vino: The relaxing atmosphere, great service, friendly staff, and delicious menu. In fact we enjoyed it so much, we spent time afterwards getting to know these passionate, caring owners. Add us to the long list of happy fans.
Taggia, located inside the boutique hotel Kimpton Firesky, is an Italian gem worth seeking out in downtown Scottsdale. One of my favorite restaurants, it boasts a picturesque setting and a menu of authentic Italian with a creative flair sourcing both imported and local ingredients.
Kimpton FireSky lobby
What makes this restaurant even more unique is its daily Aperitivo Hour. In Italy, this common social custom gathers friends and family together before dinner to enjoy a cocktail, or aperitivo, accompanied by complimentary bites. To take advantage of the only Aperitivo Hour in Phoenix, settle in the cozy lobby bar or relax on the pretty patio, as we did. It's especially lovely at dusk as the tiki torches are lit.
Taggia brings this Italian institution to Scottsdale from 4 to 6 pm Monday through Friday. Order a cocktail, beer, or wine and each drink is accompanied by a complimentary snack plate of Italian bites. I started with a classic Italian aperitivo and one of my personal favorites, a Negroni. In Italy, aperitivi are frequently cocktails based on bitter spirits such as Campari. Taggia's Garden Negroni is a delicious variation that adds Cynar (an Italian artichoke liqueur) to the usual blend of Campari, gin, and sweet vermouth. My husband opted for a refreshing Margarita Tranquilo which gets its Italian touch with the addition of Sibona chamomile liqueur.
Each of us received that night's complimentary pairing for Aperitivo Hour - a tasty trio of piave cheese and olives, caprese salad, and crostini with avocado and caponata.
As the sun set, we were led to our pretty table on the Taggia patio nestled next to a bubbling fountain. It was a beautiful night to dine al fresco and we were greeted by Will, our affable and knowledgeable server, who expertly guided us with wine pairings and menu choices for a wonderful meal:
Marinated and grilled calamari with smoky-tangy charred eggplant and saba puree, arugula, and a bright lemon-caper vinaigrette
Carbonara with chitarra pasta and the brilliant addition of green peppercorns to the traditional creamy egg yolk and parmesan sauce
Capesante (scallops) on top of velvety carrot puree, embellished with roasted corn and caper-avocado salsa
Tender chunks of braised veal on a bed of parmesan polenta with shallot-mushroom ragu and a rich barolo demi-glace
A finale of the best tiramisu in town, with layers of sponge cake and mascarpone mousse encased in a dark chocolate shell
Chitarra carbonara
Capasante
Brasato
Tiramisu
Another memorable visit to Taggia - until the next time!
We were hosted by Taggia and our experience was complimentary.
Here in my NW valley neighborhood, national chains are prolific, so when I heard Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana was opening a spot in Glendale 10 minutes from home, I knew it would become our go-to-spot. Located in the Citadelle Plaza, Pomo is to the right as you enter (on the left is Toscano Osteria, open for dinner only with an equally delicious, but different menu). You are greeted by a pizza oven taking center stage before heading into the dining room or taking a seat on the patio.
We've been to the Borgata, Gainey Ranch and downtown locations (picture here), not only for their terrific VPN-certified Neapolitan pizza, but for our favorite lasagna. Since the Glendale location opened in 2015, we've been many times, to meet friends for dinner, to enjoy cocktails and pizza at the outdoor bar, for happy hour, and, most often, it's my favorite spot for networking and business lunches. Today I had a nice afternoon getting to know Louis Privitera of Truebrew Outfitters (for restaurants and resorts: Looking to update your coffee program? Contact Louis!).
We started by sharing the fluffy potato Gnocchi alla Sorentina in zesty tomato sauce with mozzarella and Parmigiano-Reggiano, which was kindly split in the kitchen:
Next to share was my favorite, the Bufala Verace. This is the classic Margherita pizza upgraded with creamy mozzarella di bufala campana DOP, the highly-prized buffalo mozzarella imported from Italy. More pictures here and here.
It's hard not to end a meal here with a classic tiramisu.
Past pizzas: Toto Sapore with sausage, cotto, spicy salame, and pancetta, Bufala Verace, and Carbonara with eggs, pancetta, onion, cream, and Pecorino Romano.
In addition to pizzas and calzones (including gluten-free and vegetarian options), the menu offers antipasti, insalate, zuppa, and pastas, and great Negronis:
A bonus is the Italian market in the entryway. Small, but stocked well, including pantry items and a refrigerated case for quality imported Italian ingredients.
Some restaurants just feel good the moment you step inside, and Chef John Collura's Cibo e Vino (Italian for "food and wine") is such a spot. Recently we were invited to dine, and as I walked past the roomy patio, outdoor bar (where I could picture myself enjoying an al fresco Negroni), and the cozy wood-lined dining room with glowing lights, it felt warm and welcoming.
Starting with a well-made Negroni, we chose some items from the menu, and Chef Collura surprised us with others.
Negroni
I'm partial to seafood and Chef Collura's menu had an excellent array of options, including sweet steamed clams with toasted bread to dip in the lemony white wine, shallot, and garlic broth, crispy calamari that was tender, well seasoned, and expertly fried, and Black Mountain Shrimp in a pool of buttery Creole sauce with plenty of garlic bread for dunking.
The pepperoni rolls are a guest favorite and it's easy to see why. We couldn't stop eating these addictive pizza dough rosettes stuffed with oozy cheese and spicy pepperoni. This is a serendipitous dish and Chef tells us how he came up with it when he planned to make pizza at a friend's house: "I took the dough, I took the cheese, and I forgot the marinara, and I said what am I going to do? So I roll the dough out, I put the garlic on it, the pepperoni and the cheese, rolled them up and baked them. I grabbed some ranch dressing to dip, and said, there you go, pepperoni rolls. And they were fabulous. " Yes they are. I'm looking forward to exploring the other options - spinach and sausage rolls - on our next visit.
I'm glad that Chef suggested we try one of his favorite dishes and you will be too. If you're a fan of braised short ribs, this is the one for you. The beef ribs are braised for four hours to fall-apart tender perfection, nestled in a bed of creamy four-cheese risotto, and napped with a rich port demi-glace. Homey and satisfying.
We've found since our move from Boston that it isn't as easy to find veal on Italian menus here in Arizona. That's no problem at Cibo e Vino, however. Here you'll find traditional Italian dishes such as veal parmigiana, veal piccata, and veal marsala. Chef kindly agreed to make my husband's request of breaded veal cutlets (instead of sauteed) while I ordered the classic veal francese - scallopine coated in a light egg batter. Both were embellished with a zesty white wine and lemon sauce with capers and prosciutto and served with fresh vegetables and pasta marinara or risotto.
Too full for dessert, but that's no problem. We'll be back soon. In our North Valley neighborhood, there are many chains but a restaurant such as Cibo e Vino, with its friendly, talented chef, comfortable atmosphere, reasonable prices, and a menu including homemade pasta (the duck ravioli will be on my order next time), is a rare find. Bonus? Great service (thank you Susan!) and Happy Hour specials too, including all day Sunday. We're looking forward to becoming regulars.
What makes Taggia at the Kimpton FireSky Resort stand out among the many excellent Italian restaurants here in Phoenix? Talented Chef Massimo de Francesca. His artful creations blend authentic Italian with a unique creative flair molded by his global culinary background. Attending the Culinary Arts (Italian) Program at George Brown College in Toronto, Canada, Chef de Francesca honed his skills working with renowned French chef Jean Pierre Challe at Toronto's Bouchon Bistro, with Michelin-starred chef Vincenzo Cammerucci at his Cesenatico restaurant Lido-Lido in Italy, and at the Westin Casuarina Resort in Grand Cayman. In 2008, he joined the Kimpton Restaurant Group at Domaso Trattoria Moderna in Arlington, Virginia and then spent 3 years in Manhattan before moving to Scottsdale and his current position as Executive Chef of Taggia.
You’ll find these global influences in Chef Massimo’s bacala fritters which have swiftly become a signature appetizer. “Baccala, or salted cod, is an Italian tradition," he explains. "This is something I grew up with every Christmas, every special occasion. I have it on the menu because for me, every day at work is a special occasion." Instead of the more commonly seen braised or stewed variations, he prepares the baccala as salt cod fritters, a familiar dish from his time cooking on the Caribbean islands. Chef Massimo starts by soaking quality Canadian salted cod before simmering to tenderness in milk. This is then flaked and folded into a batter sweetened with pureed butternut squash steamed with thyme. Each bite reveals a creamy-fluffy interior enveloped in a light crispy shell that melts in your mouth. He takes it a step further by embellishing with chipotle aioli (“a taste of the Southwest”), and disks of hearts of palm. “Hearts of palm has an oceanic flavor, almost briny. We get fresh wild hearts of palm from Costa Rica and poach them in olive oil, water, salt, sugar and a little lemon juice. “ Finally, the dish is finished with a drizzle of lobster oil and strewn with fresh basil leaves. It’s easy to see why this has become a guest favorite, and a personal must-order on my visits.
Another crowd pleaser he tells me is the burrata. "It's a creamy, buttery, fresh mozzarella" (burrata actually means "buttered" in Italian) . At Taggia, Chef Massimo pairs it with grilled batons of onion focaccia and and a warm caponata made with roasted peppers, tomatoes , sweet onion, raisins, and eggplant, simmered to a harmonious melange with Italian tomatoes, basil, vinegar, and sugar. The crispy-chewy bread and sweet-tangy caponata are the perfect partners to the milky burrata.
Calamari is another traditional Italian ingredient that shines in the hands of Chef Massimo. You won't find its delicate flavor lost in a coating of thick batter at Taggia. Here, the calamari is marinated in an herb oil made with rosemary, thyme, garlic, onion, and lemon before being grilled and dressed with a zippy lemon-caper vinaigrette. A genius supporting element is the charred eggplant and saba puree. "The puree itself is made with the skins of eggplant so that it gives it the black color, almost like squid ink, which is kind of the play on it," Chef Massimo describes. Saba is another favorite ingredient. "Saba is a naturally reduced balsamic vinegar stored in wooden casks. All the liquid and moisture evaporates and you're left with the natural grape must. Saba is a magical ingredient, it’s wonderful, and it becomes a sweet complement to the natural bitterness of the eggplant in this dish." Baby arugula adds its pepperiness to the balance, and a shower of fresh lemon zest is the final touch. "It's a party on a plate," says Chef Massimo. He's right, I love it, and it's my new favorite calamari dish in town.
Mention pasta and cream sauce in an Italian restaurant and most people think Alfredo. At Taggia, you're in for a special treat with Chef Massimo's take on this familiar dish. He starts with airy gnocchi made with fresh ricotta, lemon zest, nutmeg, eggs, and parmesan cheese, rolled and cut by hand. For the sauce, he works his magic by sauteeing garlic, onions, and sweet shallots in butter and olive oil, before deglazing with brandy and finishing with a little cream and parmesan cheese. "Then we toss in some black truffle shavings and it really just makes a wonderful perfume." Speck, a Northern Italian smoked and cured ham that chef describes as “prosciutto meets bacon” also makes an appearance. “We slice it and then slowly dry it in the oven so it gets a little crispy and intensifies the flavor.” To garnish, "chopped toasted hazelnuts adds a really lovely texture to the soft pillow-like ricotta gnocchi. You get that nuttiness, the saltiness of the speck, and the smooth creamy gnocchi." It is an amazing combination.
Seafood is treated lovingly at Taggia, as seen in a wonderful capesante (scallop in Italian) entree. "We start with East Coast, dry packed, sushi grade scallops. You’ll see the wonderful caramelization that happens with the cast iron pan. Everyone who has our scallops say the same thing – these are the best scallops I’ve had in my entire life." I agree. They are nestled in a silky heirloom carrot puree whose natural sweetness is magnified with a hint of coconut milk, paired with roasted corn, and crowned with an avocado salsa brightened with lemon and lime juice and capers as a nod to a Sicilian accent. "The puree itself acts as both a sauce and a starch and is a good base for all the components. The idea is to have a bite of the scallop and a scoop of the puree with the crisp vegetables and tangy salsa." It's a dish as delicious as it is beautiful.
Brasato al Barolo, a Piemontese classic often made with beef, is transformed at Taggia with veal cheeks braised for 6 hours in a rich jus of vegetables and red wine until they are fall-apart tender. Served on a bed of creamy parmesan polenta, they are festooned with a roasted medley of pioppini, portabello, and cremini mushrooms before being draped in a rich Barolo wine sauce and finished with smoked sea salt. “It’s one of the simplest dishes that we have, although it takes 12 hours to prepare the demi-glace, a reduction of Barolo, port, beef and veal stock.” It's a comfort dish that is both hearty and elegant.
The same thoughtfulness is exemplified on the dessert menu, such as the zabaglione. Chef Massimo explains that it is "the Italian version of a mousse or light custard." To make this Italian dessert, "marsala wine, sugar, and egg yolks get frothed and then folded into whipped cream with sugar, lemon and vanilla." Paired with a berry salad tossed with sugar, vanilla, lemon and orange zest, and mint, it gets its Taggia touch with the enhancement of fragrant lavender and crunchy cocoa nibs.
Chef Massimo is justly proud of his tiramisu, and it's a show-stopper. "It’s not your traditional tiramisu and the amount of work that goes into it is incredible." I admire the labor-intensive time that goes into this luxurious treat as I break into the dark chocolate shell encasing the layers of ethereal mascarpone mousse and sponge cake. It's a decadent finale and truly the best tiramisu I've ever had.
In the hands of a gifted chef such as Massimo de Francesca, you're assured to enjoy mouthwatering modern Italian fare that might just be the best version you've ever had of an old favorite. Reasonable prices for such a quality menu is a bonus and Taggia also features specials. On Mondays, 11 am to close, "Raid Our Cellar" offers a selection of bottles of wines at a 50% discount in both Taggia and the Lobby Bar. Nightly, a 3-course "Prezzo Fisso" menu is available with your choice of appetizer or pasta, entree, and dessert for $45. Starting October 5th, Taggia will be introducing an Aperitivo Hour, modeled on the Italian tradition of socializing with libations paired with small plates. With all these reasons to visit, it's the perfect time to make a reservation and see for yourself the delights to be found at Taggia.
Update: As of November 2016, Chef Massimo can be found at the Kimpton Seafire Resort + Spa on the Cayman Islands.
This Italian grocer, deli and restaurant offers fantastic authentic dishes, desserts, sandwiches, freshly baked bread, and housemade salumi. It's hard to decide between ordering a favorite off the menu or daily specials like grilled calamari, branzino or spaghetti vongole. And I never leave without doing a little shopping to take home quality ingredients such as pasta, veal chops, wine, imported Italian pantry items or a box of Italian pastries.
Gnocchi
Grilled calamari
Fresh baked bread
Bacala
Branzino
Rum cake
Spaghettini con vongole
Tizio sandwich (homemade sausage with peppers and onions)
Patatine fritte - fried potatoes with crispy leeks
Sfogliatelle
Pappardelle, chitarra, Verrigni spaghettoro, Italian tuna, sopressata, scamorza, & San Marzano tomatoes
Bread, hot sopressata, bottarga, pounded bone-in veal chops, Pecorino Romano, and fontina
